Take four Ounces of the Oil of Ben, an ounce of Virgin Wax, and two drams and a half of Magistery of Bismuth. The Oil of Ben surpasses the Oil of lovely Almonds, which of the four Cool Seeds also, because it does not over-heat so much as those Oils, and keeps a long time before it changes. The Magistery of Bismuth is to be preferr’d to that of Tin or Lead, because it is a superb offer whiter.
This Cosmetic is often called Spanish White. If it be dissolv’d in Flower-de-Luce Water, it will whiten the real face.(Abdeker; or the Art of Preserving Beauty, p. One of the fun things with going right through these old formulas and trying to discover what it is that actually goes in them, is that I learn a complete great deal. Many things aren’t as odd as they appear when you get right down to it and most of them are actually used today, both for health and in cosmetics. In fact, aside from some dangerous pigments, the overwhelming majority of the ingredients do more good than damage. I’m also getting a sense that the various white and red pigments differ more than I thought.
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I started out, when I started to become thinking about the subject first, with the belief that white pigment supposed lead and that you applied it by rubbing your face with pomade and then rub the pigment in. That’s not the case and I really like that evidently! So let’s break down the ingredients in this recipe. Oil of Ben or Ben oil comes from the pressed seeds from a tree, the Moringa oliefera.
Has been used as a perfume oil for a large number of years as it easily occupies scent and since it keep perfectly, as the dishes above records. Bismuth Pearlecent white pigment. I’ve blithely assumed that bismuth and lead white will be the same always. However, this recipe makes a definite difference between them and reading up I find that it’s a metal on it’s own, though in the 18th century it was often confused with lead and tin.
It is not very as poisonous as lead, for example Bismuth subsalicylate is used even today in some medications and Bismuth oxychloride is utilized in cosmetics, especially mineral makeup. Though it is considered safe, many folks have allergies to Bismuth in makeup (I for just one) and I wouldn’t utilize it.
Titanium oxide can be bought blended with mica for a pearlecent effect and that is what I would replace it with. Magistery in the recipe means that the pigment is in a fine natural powder. Flower-de-Luce Water That one is a little tricky. It appears to point at the rose Iris, but that rose is poisonous and irritates your skin. But, the Yellow Iris, or Yellow Flag, is often puzzled with Sweet Flag or Calamus.
It is also found in several other beauty quality recipes from the 18th century. It seems quite likely that Flower-de-Luce Water is actually made of Sweet Flag, not Iris. It ought to be possible to find fact of Sweet flag, nevertheless, you can also find the dried root and make your own.